Originating from Brazil, cashew is today an integral part of Goan life. Scientifically known as Anacardium Occidentale, it was introduced to Goa after 1700 A.D. Initially brought to control soil erosion and improve river conditions during an era dominated by river navigation, cashew’s versatility soon became evident to locals who discovered that the cashew apple could ferment, providing an alternative to other local beverages like coconut nero, arrak/urrak, and feni.
The evolution of the cashew industry The consumption of cashew nuts was first observed in Kerala in 1925 when they were eaten as germinating kernels (‘goddavlim’), followed by roasting in 1926.
In Goa, it was entrepreneur Ganesh Mahadeo Prabhu Zantye who first began roasting and selling cashews.
As techniques evolved, and raw cashews from East Africa entered the scene, the industry experienced a significant growth, leading to the establishment of processing factories in Goa by Narayan Zantye and his brother Sriram.
In fact, Zantye played a pioneering role in cashew processing in India, marking its first successful export in 1928 to the U.S.A. by Narayan Zantye and Company.
“During that period, Goa lacked industries, and the cashew processing was the primary source of employment for Goans, particularly for female workers. Cashew farming and harvesting were also a main source of agricultural income for Goan farmers,” says partner at Zantye Cashews, Rohit Zantye.
He adds that during the early 20th century, Goa was an important hub for cashew processing, with its influence later extending to Quilon (Kerala) and Mangaluru (Karnataka). “By the 1990s, Goa boasted over 50 cashew processing factories, employing over 10,000 female workers, primarily from rural areas.”
Simultaneously, he says, Goan cashew processors began targeting Indian tourists visiting the state. “The growth of Indian tourists helped in the growth of the industry in Goa. There was no need to market cashew elsewhere.”
Today, Zantye’s remain a prominent player in Goa’s cashew business .
Discussing the impact of cashew nut business on global trade and economy, Zantye explains that due to their superior quality, Goan cashews command a price nearly 25% higher than imported raw cashews and 5-10% higher than cashews from other states. “Only buyers who recognise and value the quality of Goan cashews are willing to pay a premium,”he says.
However, he states there has been a shift in importer preferences from quality to price amid recession in Western countries, leading them to favour cashews from Vietnam over Goa. In fact, Vietnam has surpassed India as the world’s largest exporter of processed cashew nuts. Indian exports have decreased over the past three-four years and today Indian cashews make up for less than 5% of the global trade excluding India. “But India has become the biggest consumer of cashew kernel and the exports were substituted by selling in the domestic market. This shift is driven by increased consumption in sweets, gifting, direct-to-consumer sales, and modern trade,” says Zantye.
Secretary, Goa Cashew Manufacturers Association, Miramar, Vindesh Shirodkar adds that Goan cashew nuts are consistently in demand owing to their distinctive sweet taste, influenced by the region’s black soil and traditional harvesting methods. “Farmers in Goa are known for allowing the cashew apple to ripen fully, resulting in superior quality nuts. Also, the demand for cashew nuts has surged across tier 2 and tier 3 cities, driven by the adoption of healthier eating habits, particularly in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic,” he says. But despite this, international interest has seen a slight decline due to increased processing in South Asian and African countries.
New high-yielding crop
In fact, the increasing economic significance of cashew nuts and cashew feni has led to a search for high-yielding cashew varieties, known as ‘Selections’. These are grafts of elite trees found in nature that promise superior yields and kernel characteristics. Among these, Goa-1, discovered in Bali-Quepem, stands out for its exceptional yield and kernel quality. “Goa also boasts of selections like Goa-2, Goa-3, and Goa-4 from Ganjem-Usgao and Tiswadi,” says former agricultural officer, Miguel Braganza
The DBSKKV’s Regional Fruit Research Station at Vengurla in Maharashtra has developed the Vengurla series of grafted cashew plants, with Vengurla-4 emerging as the most popular variety in India. Braganza explains, “Its fruits ripen early, with urrak from Vengurla-4 cashew apples available well before Carnival, Holi, and Shigmo festivals.”
Goa’s unique brew
Cashew feni, a local specialty in Goa, stands out from other alcoholic beverages due to its unique production process and taste.
Secretary of the All Goa Cashew Feni Distillers & Bottlers Association, Hansel Vaz, a feni maker and the founder of Cazulo Premium Feni, says that while cashew fruit is often considered agricultural waste globally, countries like Brazil used to make cashew juice. “The state’s use of this fruit in feni production sets it apart from the rest of the world. In many ways, Goa was ahead of its time in recognising the potential of cashew fruit,” he says.
Feni’s diverse consumer base
The feni industry attracts three main consumer groups: Goans, Indians from other regions, and foreigners. Indians and foreigners buy feni due to its exoticness, often as a souvenir. Goans meanwhile see feni as a source of pleasure and pride. This diversity presents an opportunity to engage with different markets and reshape perceptions of Goa’s feni culture, potentially leading to significant growth.
And over the years, Vaz has witnessed a significant transformation in the perception of feni—from a traditional drink to a symbol of Goan culture.
At Fazenda Cazulo, deliberate steps to preserve the history and heritage of feni are taken. Vaz says that they probably have the largest collection of ‘garrafaos’ in which feni would be stored. He is also in the process of writing a book on the history of feni.
A blend of tradition and innovation
Of late, there has also been a trend towards cashew feni and urrak-based cocktails. Feni, in particular, says Vaz, has evolved in its usage within modern mixology. Around 12 years ago, classic cocktails were replicated by substituting tequila with feni and so on. “However, this approach merely spoofed existing cocktails. What’s important is the creation of original cocktails,” he says.
Vaz further adds that the perception of feni cocktails has also evolved. “It wasn’t a popular choice; people preferred whiskey, vodka, or gin cocktails. Feni had a bad reputation for making your breath smell bad, but we’ve debunked those myths. By utilising our local resources and the talent of our mixologists, we’re paving the way for a bright future for feni,” he says.
Challenges of the cashew industry
But as a whole, the cashew industry in Goa is facing its share of challenges. Shirodkar highlights that challenges arise from higher labour costs compared to neighbouring states like Maharashtra and Karnataka. “Also, the rising real estate culture in Goa has led to increased tree felling, affecting the availability of raw materials. Addressing this aspect will require a collaborative effort with the government to ensure that cashew tree cultivation keeps pace with development,” he says.
The main challenge for the farmers is very low yield per hectare, says Zantye. “Vietnam cultivates 1200 kgs per hectare and in Cambodia it is as high as 2000 kg per hectare. The Goan cashew yield as per the agriculture department is 430 per hectare, while the actual yield will be even lower. Managing pest control is also a factor for low yield.”
Luckily, due to distillation of urrak and feni which provides additional income to the farmer, cashew plantation is carried out though above factors pose a huge risk.
Another big challenge for Goan cashew processors is inability to sell their product in Goa, thus increasing their reliance on markets outside. This, Zantye says, is unfortunate as the Goan cashew market was developed by Goan cashew processors to become a brand, which now has outsiders capturing the markets, even by selling cashews processed out of Goa being termed Goan cashews. “They also resort to illegal trade practices like not following FDA guidelines and sell inferior quality cashews.”
Another issue he adds is the prevalence of adulteration in the market, where genuine products are becoming scarce due to cheaper alternatives. “Many outsiders opt for these cheaper options without realising they are not genuine products. This has led to a decline in the availability of authentic cashew feni, as the demand for cheaper alternatives grows. Last year, my sales dropped as many consumers shifted to cheaper feni options.
Expanding feni production
The resulting shortage of cashew fruit and toddy production then hampers the feni production. “Feni also faces stiff competition from both national and international spirits. Feni must stand out among them, appealing customers to choose it over the rest,” says Vaz.
For this, he says, more support from the government is required to boost marketing efforts. Entities like the Goa International Travel Mart, Goa Tourism, the Economic Council of Goa, and GCCI (Goa Chamber of Commerce and Industry) need to actively promote feni. Recently, the G20 gift hamper gifted to delegates had a bottle of feni with some Kunbi fabric decoration from Madame Rosa distillery. Vaz believes the government should utilise events of such kind to promote feni.
“It’s also important to shift attention to feni promotion because it sustains local communities. Also, we should encourage bars to create feni-based cocktails to increase its demand. Lastly, selling feni duty-free at the Goa international airport could enhance its visibility and accessibility,” he says.
Strategic focus for beverage production
Apart from feni, urrak and nero are also popular drinks obtained from the cashew. While nero is a light refreshing and non-alcoholic drink that is particularly loved during the hot summer months in Goa, urrak presents a new dimension as an alcoholic beverage. It’s interesting aspect lies in its alcohol content, which typically ranges from 25% to 35%, depending on the region of Goa. However, urrak lacks standardised norms. It reflects the diverse culture of Goa, with its taste varying depending on whether it’s made in North or South Goa. “While people may not enjoy feni, they appreciate urrak’s charm. With each sip, their fondness for it grows. This transition is visible in Goa’s culture, where social media has played a pivotal role in promoting urrak and feni,” says Vaz.
However, he says, the infrastructure in Goa is primarily tailored to the feni industry rather than nero production. “Cashew juice is rich in vitamin C and probiotics. While cashew juice holds potential, diverting cashews from feni production in Goa could pose challenges. Instead, encouraging other states to produce nero for feni-making could be a solution,”
says Vaz.
Similarly, while feni gets better with age, urrak loses its flavour within a month or two while nero also has a short shelf life of a day or two. “Thus, focusing more on feni production could be more sustainable in the long run,” says Vaz.
However, he acknowledges the challenges associated with obtaining cashew fruit and juice. “In Goa, it requires seeking out sources, often from tribal communities, and even then, it’s only available in season.”
At Fazenda Cazulo, the distillery he oversees, the focus is on educating individuals about feni—the production process, tasting sessions, food pairings, or other initiatives—all aimed at nurturing and promoting the rich cultural heritage of feni.
Local partnerships for sustainable growth
Engaging with local communities is crucial too, says Vaz. “The laws governing feni are designed to prevent monopolies. Therefore, whether by choice or necessity, we must work closely with local communities,”says Vaz who collaborates with the Velip community and various tribal groups in Balli, Morpilla, Bacrem, Basreh, and Pirla, from whom he sources the feni.
“Drink feni and save Goa because a significant portion of profits go back to these communities that produce the feni,” says Vaz. “We must avoid exploitation and instead focus on creating a profession that is seen as a respected and desirable alternative. It’s essential that we raise these jobs and make sure they are seen as valuable contributors to our cultural heritage.”
The many medicinal benefits
Cashew feni also offers several health benefits. Cotton wool soaked in feni is a traditional remedy for relieving aching teeth in children, despite initial concerns about sterilisation or intoxication. Also, cashew feni is applied to the navel to alleviate stomach aches.
Another interesting use involves mixing a spoonful of sugar with a peg (60 ml) of cashew feni in a ceramic cup, setting it on fire (flambéed) using a matchstick or coconut midrib (broomstick). The fire should be blown out within a minute. This fiery mixture, when consumed hot just before bedtime, helps relieve cough and cold symptoms. In cases of delirium resulting from high fever, cashew feni acts as an alternative solution when volatile oil or Eau de Cologne is unavailable.
Braganza shares that earlier, grandmothers used feni for various purposes, from controlling germs to dealing with worms, including roundworms in the stomach and leeches on one’s legs in the fields and hillsides during the monsoons.
The nuts too are rich in nutrition. “Cashew nut kernels, contain 21% vegetable proteins, 47% fat, 22% carbohydrates, 5% iron, and other essential minerals, alongside vitamins A, D, and E,” he adds.
Alternate uses of cashew fruit
The cashew is also used for purposes beyond producing liquor and nuts. The cashew juice can be transformed into squash or syrup, with or without ginger or cardamom to enhance flavour. Also, the fruit juice is fermented to make wine. The mature but unripe cashew apple is even utilised as vegan meat, while cashew sorpotel has become a modern delicacy.
According to Vaz, the dried fruit is used as fuel too. He recalls an NGO from Jharkhand reaching out to him about this, where they used the sugar-rich cashew fruit, boasting a high calorific value, as a clean-burning fuel. Another NGO approached Vaz about using cashew waste to make paper. “The potential of cashew fruit hasn’t been fully explored yet, and the possibilities are
numerous.”